Keep it up Lads!!

Perhaps it's my 'George' shorts but yet again this evening heard the shout 'Keep it up Lads' as we neared the top of a hill - definitely getting a bit of a complex here.....  If I was George from the famous five, I'd be really happy though wouldn't I  - being mistaken for a boy all the time......

Dunsdale to Robin Hoods Bay (Fri) to Hunmanby (Sat) to Ulrome (Sun) to Humber-Upon-Barton (Mon)

So, four days since last managed to get a 3G signal on my dongle - could get a good 1G signal, but no good for the internet connection.  Another 150 miles cycled, total up to over 1,000 miles now (approx 1,050 mies).   Were lots of hills on Friday as we made our way from Clive's towards Whitby - can't go the most direct route as this takes you on an A road that is also designated a trunk road - not a good place to be on your bike.  As we cycled down towards the sea from Dunsdale, a panoramic view northwards of industrialised Teesdale, which suddenly changes to a countryside and coastal scene.  Saltburn-by-the-Sea looked an interesting place, despite a steep descent down to the seafront (had a pier as well) followed by a really steep hill the other side - a tough gravelly footpath for walkers and cyclists.  We did what we were told to do - 'Cyclists Please Walk, Steep Track' - honest we'd have managed to cycle it (...not!!)  A guy on a mountain bike overtook us at the top - not sure if he'd cycled all the way up or not - he was on his way home having just cycled to Middlesbrough for some new brake pads.  Long and steep ups and downs were the name of the day.  For some reason the No 1 North Sea Cycle Route has a 15 mile gap in it, from Staithes (east along the coast from Redcar) to Whitby.  There is no other route possible than to follow other than the busy A174. Very pleased when we got to Lythe Bank, a 1 in 4 hill - going down...... and down to Sandsend, a lovely sandy beach that continues round to Whitby.   Good views of the abbey on the headland above the bay.  Past a guest house that differentiated itself by using the Dracula theme.  Route 1 suddenly appears on the map again, and follows the route of the old Scarborough to Whitby railway line - once we were able to actually get onto the track - could see where it was but missed the cycle entrance some how - ended up manhandling the bikes down some very steep wooden steps. Not an easy task. We both found the old railway track hard work - a grotty fine gravelly track with sections of large gravel - both really treacherous to our bikes - you have to be on your toes all the time in case you skid.  Also a slight incline for much of the way - but a good gradual downhill section towards the end thank goodness.  But - there is always another hill......  - the campsite was half a mile up hill and being the Friday evening of the Bank Holiday Weekend was packed out.  We'd rung before we left Clive's in the morning to book in because of this - supposed to stay a minimum of 3 nights, but the owner very kindly had said he'd find us some room.  Good views over Robin Hood's Bay.  
Everyone on the campsite was up amazingly early on Saturday - probably because it was so cold!!  An overcast and miserable sort of morning - we locked the bikes up at the carpark above the narrow steep road down into the village of Robin Hoods Bay and walked down to the cove at the bottom and then back up.  Lots of people there, some really struggling to make it back up the hill again.  There is an old black and white photo of a bus (a charabang) that got trapped as it went round one of the narrow bends - it took many, many hour to get it unstuck - and trapped some motorists at the bottom of the hill.  They were very proud though that the mail got through - it was passed up the hill around the obstruction to another postal van the other side, and a spare bus was sent to take the stranded passengers home!!!   The jail is now a holiday house that is let out - it was built at the time the railway was built because at weekends the railway navvies would get very drunk on the beach and fights would break out, and someone was even killed.  Until the jail was built those who were arrested would be loaded up into a cart and a net thrown over them and taken off to Whitby.  By the time it was built though, the need for it had almost gone as the railway was finished and the workers moved on.  Another tale that is told is when a ship foundered in the bay and the lifeboat from Whitby had to be brought by land as too rough to launch it from there.  They had to get through huge snow drifts - and amazingly managed the 6 miles or so in 2 hours - with the help of all the locals and 12 horses.
The coast to coast walk ends/starts in Robin Hood Bay - and there is a Wainwright Bar to commemorate its founder,and the opportunity to buy a plaque - the example says that 'Tom, Dick and Harry completed the walk.  Always think that I'm very glad I don't live in popular grockle spot.
Followed the old railway track once again all the way to Scarborough - the first few miles being particularly hard work - a gradual incline on the same grotty surface as the previous afternoon - up to the highest spot of 631 feet. at the village of Ravenscar  It's much steeper than normal railway tracks -and the steam trains would have to take a couple of goes at the final incline ( a 1 in 39 slope) to make it.  A short closed off tunnel (cost an extra £500 to build this) is bypassed by the route - this was built so that the railway didn't spoil the view from the local hotel there.  It was always wet and  damp inside the tunnel making it even harder for the train to make it up the hill.  In 1947 12 foot snowdrifts isolated the town for 6 weeks or more until they were finally relieved by a snowplough loaded with bread and cakes.  Ravenscar was a town that never was - set up to rival Whitby to the north and Scarborough to the south - as the 'most bracing health resort' on the east coast!!! Roads were laid out in readiness for an expected influx of developers - but they never came and in 1911 the company that had speculated on the land went broke.  Continuing to Scarborough was mainly on the now gradually descending old track, lots of walkers and cyclists.  Stopped at a cafe at the lovely old station of Cloughton - had won many prize for the best kept station - right up to 1964 when Beeching did his worst.  The guy who lived there was a chatty sort of guy -not sure how he got much work done in the garden -asked us about what we were doing and where we were from - turned out that a judge who lived on Lower Cribden in Rawtenstall (about 1/2 mile away from our house) was staying in the station holiday let next door.  Through the centre of Scarborough and overlooked the bay from the cliff tops and hotel/guest house land, with a view of the Grand hotel.   A gradual uphill ride southwards then, miserable weather with rain threatening all the time.  Had thought about getting to Flamborough Head but we'd done over 30 miles, and a campsite was signposted at Hunmamby, afew miles south and inland from Filey (and down a steep hill....), and it was at least another 12 miles to the next campsite shown on our map -if it was actually there.  Good call by Roger, as we'd just got the tent up and cosy inside when it started raining - and continued till 10 pm or so - in time for the campers enjoying the Kar-e-oke (however you spell it!!) in the nearby bar to congregate outside near our tent as they smoked their cigarettes.  There was a cigarette but container on the wall - but with a sign on it saying not to use it as birds nesting in it.  As I went to take a photo of the sign a small bird flew out of the box - just missed it.  Also lots of funny signs from railways inside the amusement arcade area (!!) but was locked up when I went to take some photos of them the morning after.   There was also a miniature railway and station at the campsite, with the kids able to go on a trip around a small pond.  Next morning (Sunday), still cold and fairly miserable, the hill back up on to the route didn't look as bad as it had done the night before but still lots of up and down - but with a glorious couple of miles downhill at a speed of about 20mph- straight, narrow road, no traffic and good road surface - oh, if only cycling was more about this...... it would no doubt get very boring.....  Bridlington seems more like the Blackpool of the east coast, Scarborough the Southport and Whitby perhaps the Morcambe equivalent????  
Could see 12 win turbines in the distance that we finally came upon - they are sited at the old Lisset air field - it was the Bomber Command that was nearest to Germany during the 2nd World War and home of 158 Squadron.  The windmills are 410 foot high (makes you think when I was talking about how hard going it was up the old railway track to the height of 631 feet!!) and the twelve of them can generated enough electricity to provide the annual needs for 10% of the east riding houses.  A memorial has been set up to the 851 members of the squadron who died on active service (see photo) and all the names are included on the figures. In addition 11 of the 12 turbines have been named after planes that flew from here - Jane, Blondie, Zombie, Lili Marlene, Maori Chief, Goofy's Gift, The Menace, Friday the 13th, Xpress Delivery, Git Up Them Stairs and Minnie the Moocher.  The final turbine is named after 6 aircrew  who were killed when a 1,000 lb bomb exploded unexpectedly at the air base.  A lovely idea - worth calling to see if you are driving near by.
30 miles for the day got us as far as Ulrome, a small coastal village to the north of Hornsea.  Thought we'd stop here for all the usual reasons - weather, logistics, was there anywhere else nearby that might take tents etc - and the wind was really getting up.  The site was ginormous with field after field of caravans and tents, all close together.  The coast here is all being eroded away and there are old caravan pitched that have fallen away into the sea (one with an enticing electricity socket dangling that was just too much of a risk to get to for Roger to make use of it....) - a lovely beach though that is accessible from the campsite which makes it.  Roger fell out with me because I decided the spot to camp was at the far end of the field - empty compared to the rest of the site - enormous tents dotted around the perimeter of the field.  Tents are so big these days - lots of them with a large central communal area with 3 large wings coming off this which are the bedroom annexes.  Anyway, where I suggested was quiet - way from the narrow entrnce in, away from noisy kids, away from the road, away from the rubbish bins - but it was the furthest away from the loos - and Roger hates walking, and also exposed to the wind - as were most places in the field - all except for a small space right by the entrance to the field - which was a haven from the wind I do have to admit when I walked to the loos later on.  It was really windy all night - and cold.  So much for being the end of May - just when is summer proper going to start?

We were back to three layers this morning when we set off - had to turn back as the road we wanted to go along had fallen away into the sea.  Into Hornsea - one layer off by then - but still windy - went into an empty cafe for an early lunch - and started a trend - 20 minutes later when we left it was heaving with people.  We'd come off the official North Sea Route to come to Hornsea - the end of the Trans Pennine Cyclepath, which runs from Southport to Hornsea - Roger and I cycled this from Southport as far as Hull 3 years ago on our way to the Black sea.  So wanted to see the official end and cycle the missing 13 miles we didn't do last time.  The route once again follows an old railway line that goes at a 45 degree angle from the coast to Hull, on the river Humber.  Once we were 1/4 mile or so inland the weather changed really quickly and the sun was out and the wind not nearly as blowy as it had been.  Lots of people out walking and cycling and making the most of a now nice Bank Holiday Monday.  A lovely way to come into Hull - in the centre before you knew it - spent some time finding a bike shop - but unlike all the other shops round about it - it was shut unfortunately- hopefully the workers were all out enjoying the good weather on their bikes.  Stopped to shop at an Asda - recognised it from calling in at it when we cycled the Trans Pennine last time - getting goodies to eat on the ferry crossing to Rotterdam.  Last bit of the day was a cycle, first under the access road with a great view of the underside of the bridge, followed by cycling across the Humber bridge itself in the sunshine, with views down onto the old clay pits at the side of the river and the old brick factory near by to them.  The pan tiles of the roofs in this part of the world used to be made here from the clay and left out to dry along the banks of the  Humber.  Camped in a small campsite just near the river - am typing this sat at a wooden picnic table and benches with all my layers on, with a hot cup of tea, gloves and hat on and starting to shiver.  The sun has long gone I've eaten my tea that chef Roger has very kindly made and I'm eating Dolly Mixtures now.....  We're spending 2 nights here as mum and her friend Sandra are coming to see us tomorrow on the train - the station is close by to the campsite.  Lets hope the weather is nice......

Dunsdale, between Redcar and Guisborough

So, last time I wrote up the blog properly 4 days ago we were camping at Belford, enjoying the hot weather, ice lollies and cold drinks. Yesterday afternoon saw us shivering, cold and very wet as we cycled up the longish steepish hill towards Dunsdale where Clive Teare lives - nearly made it to the top of the hill but the road narrowed a little and as it was getting towards rush hour time there was a lot of fast moving traffic both ways on the road - and we tend to wobble even more than normal at the top of a climb!! -so pushed the bikes the last little way for safety. Very generously as he left for Amsterdam earlier in the day, Clive had left his key with his next door neighbour and given us the run of the house, and joy of joys - a bath with lots of hot water. Celebrated with the longest bath in history- hadn't realised just how cold I'd got in my cycling shorts (not Lycra you'll be very glad to hear) in the rain this afternoon. After a cool overcast day yesterday it was really cold again last night but were fooled this morning as we woke to the warmth of a blue sky and sunshine - lovely while it lasted. Obviously most people had been fooled by it as well as this afternoon virtually everyone we saw walking or cycling in the cold and the rain had short sleeved warm weather summer clothes on with no coats on, getting soaked through. At least we had our yellow waterproof coats on - but still felt very cold. Not helped by the fact that we'd decided to leave the North Sea route cycle trail,and instead of going inland from Hartlepool towards Stockton On Tees and from there over the river Tees and into Middlesbrough, we would follow the coast road and go over the river via the transporter bridge - one of only three still working in the UK (others at Gwent and Warrington), and of the twenty originally built worldwide between the late 1800s and early 1900's (many of these are no longer in existence) that takes you straight into Middlesbrough itself. Would have been a good plan if the bridge had been open - but it wasn't - and thats when the rain started in ernest. Meant an extra 6 miles to cycle up river to the first 'proper' bridge and back down the other side - cycling right past the other end of the transporter bridge in the pouring rain. No idea why it was shut - no indication on the web site that it's shut - can even see a live web cam shot of the bridge http://www.bbc.co.uk/tees/webcams/transporter.shtml should you want to!! Known as the Tranny or Transporter, it is a Grade 2 listed building.

So, back to Belford. Left bright and early, a coolish start to the day and a low lying mist -as we cycled down to the castle at Bamburgh the towers were hidden in the mist. As it was Sunday morning, the day after a beautiful hot Saturday the roads were very busy - too cool and overcast for the beach, so lets all go for a drive, and lets go to the castle. Followed the coast road rather than the back lanes to Seahouses - a very busy little place for 10 o'clock on a Sunday morning. and then along to Crastor, past the camp site at Durstan where we camped many years go andhad a lovely days walking along the costal path to the ruined Dunstanburgh Castle. Stopped for lunch where the road we were cycling on touched the coastal path (doesn't happen very often along this stretch) and sat having our butties overlooking the sea and rocks below -till the mist rolled in and obliterated the view seawards. There was a steady flow of people walking along the coastal path - to be honest the only way to appreciate the coastline of this part of the world properly is by foot as the roads tend to stay inland, with not many opportunities to look out to the sea, other than where villages have sprung up around harbours. There was a Sunday family cycle event being held, called Michelle's Ride 2010, a fund raiser for the Sir Bobby Robson Foundation (clinical trials of new cancer drugs) and Sustrans (the UK’s leading sustainable transport charity, delivering practical projects to encourage people to travel in ways that benefit their health and the environment). We're using Sustrans routes and maps as we cycle down through Scotland and England. Great to see so many people, and families joining in the event - they could cycle a 5 mile, 20 mile or a 40 mile route. Most cycling faster than us of course, loaded down as we are - but fortunately most were going the opposite way to begin with at least - on their way north to Craster (the 40 mile route). Later on as we got south of Alnmouth we started to overtake some of the family groups with young children. Would have been better though if 5 minutes after Roger hadn't taken a nasty tumble of his bike when he skidded on gravel as we crossed over a farm track across the cycleway. Were inspecting the bleeding grazed wound on his arm as they all re-overtook us again. First time had to get the first aid kit out - have lots of larger dressings for grazes - as from experience I know normal plasters aren't much use for the wounds you get when you come off your bike. In the nicest of ways, it's a nice change for it not to be me that was being patched up - but no doubt I will get my cumuppence by the end of the trip!!

Roger was really, really grumpy after the fall - mumbling '...stupid trip etc' and glaring away at me - was all my fault because I wanted to so this trip etc. The sun was back out now and it was getting hot, only about 3 or so but as there was a campsite marked on the map about 100 yards from where he had fallen off on the outskirts of Warkworth, I thought it was wise to stop for the day. No sign for the campsite but went past a large back garden with caravans in it - so went in and found the house, Ok to stay but was a site where people left smallish tourer vans and visited at weekends, or for a couple of weeks a year for their holidays. Normally not many people there the owner said but because the wether was so nice and it was Sunday - most people were up at the caravans for the weekend. Felt bit bad putting the tent up in a small space near to a caravan with people sat outside - they had to move their car for us - but they had gone by early evening. Very hot in the sun but freezing in the shade - no happy in between. A few hours behind us a lad we had seen arriving with a group of cycle campers who had cycled from Newcastle to Edinburgh when we were at the campsite in Edinburgh arrived at the campsite. He'd left a day after us- the rest of the group had been piked up by car but he was cycling home to Leicester. Like us, he is discovering that the number of places available to camp between here and the other side of Teeside is relatively limited - what is around only tend to take caravans now when I did my research prior to the trip. Not sure where everyone who owns a tent is going to camp in the future the way it seems to be going - campsites seem to be becoming a bit of a dinosaur in many parts of the country - the money seems to be in going more up market and catering for residential caravans and a better class of facilities.

Once we'd stopped and got the tent up, and had tea Roger seemed back to his normal happy self once again. A lovely evening, and the first time of the trip we actually felt like we had enough energy and willpower to go for a bit of a walk (!!) - so walked along the road a bit and then across the dunes to the sea - a perfect end to the day.

Next day, overcast and cooler all day - much better cycling weather - kept close to the sea for much of the morning and stopped for some thing to eat outside a cafe in Newbiggin-by-the-sea. Called 'Bellybusters' - loved the name. Difficult bit of navigating after this - lost half an hour or so and a few miles while we sorted ourselves out before a painless cycle through well signposted backstreets of Blyth. Certainly this part of the trip has seen us passing many ex mining villages and memorials to disused or disappeared collieries. Some of them have a real 'end of the world' feel to them. There seem to an awful lot of horses in the area - many of them tethered on bits of grass and fields all over the place.

Once past Blyth we reached the sea front and stopped for a toilet stop and an ice cream for Sue, then were looking at the done up (at great lottery funding expense) coastal defence buildings here when the cycle camper from Edinburgh and Walkworth turned up - amazed us as he'd left before us in the morning so expected him to be way in front of us - but he was having problems with his front wheel, so after a chat he set off in front of us again on his way to Newcastle to hopefully get to a cycle shop there before it shut for the day - and at the same time as this another cyclist started talking to Roger - he'd just cycled from Penrith and was on his way home to Tynemouth.

I loved the cycle down from Blyth to Tynemouth - all along the seafront. Seaton Sluice was an interesting place (photo) - a quiet backwater of a place now but in the past was an important harbour for the shipment of coal, with major work done to improve the loading of ships. I thought Tynemouth would be full of disused shipworks and a bit of an eyesore - how wrong could I be. Lovely beaches, no industry to be seen, looks like a gentrified version of Blackpool or better. Even has a castle and a priory on the corner between the coast and the Tyne river mouth. It would seem that three kings were buried here - King Oswin, 651 AD - rather than have his soldiers butchered in battle he sent them home and gave himself up instead and was murdered; King Osred 792 AD, betrayed by his nobles when king and became a monk in York, tried to regain the throne but was again betrayed and put to death on the orders of King 'Butcher' Ethelred; and King Malcolm of Scotland 1093 AD who used to raid Northumberland regularly - he was killed along with 3000 Scots near Alnwick but buried here at Tynemouth. It is because of these three kings that the coat of arms for Tynemouth has three crowns on it. Roger was joined by a guy on a mountain bike who chattered away to him for a couple of miles or more, swapping life stories. Certainly everyone is very friendly here, and there are so many cyclists and runners, every where you look. I loved this stretch of coast - such a pleasant surprise

As we'd had a good days cycling, it was a lovely afternoon, and there was the chance of a campsite south of the river Tynes, we decided we would not follow the river west up to the city of Newcastle and the bridges across the river, but instead we'd get the pedestrian/cycle ferry that goes from about a mile up river across to South Shields. Arrived just as the 'Pride of Tyne' was discharging passengers from a trip over from the opposite side so didn't take long to get over to the other side of the river - so fortune was with us for once as it only runs every 30 minutes. There has been a ferry here since the 1300's.

A large Asda on the other side so as I'd runout of books to read once again called in for '2 books for £7' and some food for tea. Remembered that I had the phone number for the campsite on the map- so rang and they said that 'No, they didn't take tents' - was a service company rather than the actual site itself. Decided that we would cycle to the outskirts of Sunderland, further south down the coast and stay at the B and B place where my friend Debs and me had stayed last year when we cycled the Coast to Coast from Whitehaven to Sunderland.

Cycled along the prom, along the last mile or so of the Newcastle BUPA half marathon route that Debs and I ran 18 months ago- past the spot on the grass where I collapsed in a heap in the cold sea breeze for an hour at the end feeling dreadful - was Ok for the first 8 miles - we were running well - but a dodgy Lasagna at pub in Haltwhistle the night before caught up with me then was lucky to get to the finish- was ill for a couple of days after this - and very glad Debs was with me and that Roger was there to meet us to get me back to the car- we'd left it at the airport Metro and taken the Metro into the centre of Newcastle for the start of the race - so had to get back there from the finish at South Shields - a slow bus journey followed by the Metro - with me looking and feeling like a bag lady. Anyway - wasn't aware of it at the time but the last mile is slightly downhill all the way which is good!!! - realised this as we pedaled the opposite way slightly uphill on the bikes.

Went past the caravan site that we'd hoped to camp at - but Roger noticed that it had a tent symbol on the sign - so thought he would see if they really didn't take tents - I thought it would be a waste of time - but yes, they said we could camp there - in between the caravans once again like the night before- but as it was Monday now most were empty once again. Not sure how much longer you will be allowed to camp here though as being done up and looks as though the older caravans will soon get their arching orders and larger, posher residential caravans with a whole raft of new rules (posted on the back of the refurbished toilet block doors) due to come into force. There was no sign on the toilet block as to which was the ladies and which was the mens - Roger went first so found which ones had the urinals in, so I went to the other one. The few other people on the campsite were equally as confused so a bloke walked into the ladies as I was cleaning my teeth later that evening. I mention this to put into context a small incident the next morning when I went to have shower. I was taking advantage of the mirror in the changing area bit of the shower area to look at the very strange tan I'm acquiring - brown arms that start just above the elbows and stop at my wrist where my cycle gloves start,a small brown keyhole on the back of my hand from the gloves, and then brown fingers from the knuckles downwards as the gloves are half fingered ones. Then exceedingly brown knees down to sock level - and white thighs,and a very brown face and neck - with a white spectacles shaped area. My ears have nearly stopped scabbing now - the scabs are peeling away nicely!!

Just to remind you that a couple of weeks before we went away (and before we knew we would be going so soon) I had a rather disastrous trip to the hairdressers. Tony, my usual hairdresser has just retired - I'm used to sitting there gassing away with him catching up with all the local gossip while he snips away - all done and dusted in a very quick time- and all is well. Did the same with the new lass, and didn't bother looking in the mirror too hard (no glasses on so can't see that well anyway) - and was only when she got the clippers out and shaved the back of my neck I realised something wasn't right - boy had she cut it short..... In the end was quite useful because we decided to come away, so will last a decent length of time before needing cutting again. I usually need it cutting every 5 weeks - well it's now over 7 weeks since I had this hair cut and it's probably about the length it normally is when I've just had it cut.

Back to the toilets - I had my knickers and a t-shirt on so was decent, but heard the door to the loos open so stepped into the shower behind me, so the woman coming in only saw the back of me. 'This is the ladies toilet you know' she said to me in a very accusing tone of voice. I wasn't sure what she said so said back 'This IS the ladies isn't it?' 'Yes it is' said the lady, again in a tone of voice that said - 'What are you doing here if you know it's the ladies?'. So I then had to say the immortal words - 'I am a lady you know.....' - to which she had the grace to look slightly embarrassed, but I'm still not convinced she totally believed me.....

Add to that, yesterday as we were cycling along in the rain in our yellow coats a bloke shouted encouragement out to us - 'Keep it up Lads' - I'm getting a bit of a complex here.....

Where we were camped (Marsden, just south of South Shields) was OK spot I suppose - but according to the guy at the campsite was an excellent view out over the sea and overlooking South Shields - well he probably ought to get out a bit more..... As we were packing up the next morning Roger noticed by where we had been camped what looked like a giant earthworm (photo) - but to be honest it didn't move like a worm - and didn't burrow into the ground like one - but instead slithered and 'S'ed its way like a snake does- but didn't look any snake I've ever seen before - so if anyone has any idea what it was let me know. Thinking about it, it probably was a slow worm - not seen one I don't think before.

A relatively uneventful day cycling down through Sunderland and south towards Hartlepool. Breakfast in Morrisons's Supermarket while I sent an email to Clive as no reception at the campsite the night before - was about the excitement for the day. Interesting cycling inland along the river Wear at Sunderland for a mile or so until we crossed the bridge over the river to the south side - I had cycled the opposite way along it at the end of our Coast to Coast ride last year with Debs- (was raining and miserable then - in deed thick fog the day after when Roger came to pick us up and the foghorn had been sounding all night).

Route finding a bit difficult later on in the day and starting to get cold. So very glad when we actually found the one and only campsite in the area that allows tents - only fault was it was in the distance on the opposite side of the main railway line - with a steep footbridge over - luckily with a groove for the wheels to go in - but still very hard work with the heavy bikes. A very basic campsite - but a lovely spot in a small garden. Had finished tea and reading our books when who should arrive but our friend from the Edinburgh campsite - about time we learnt his name - Kumeran, from Sri Lanka originally. He'd stayed at the youth hostel in Newcastle the night before, and managed to get his front wheel sorted this morning - needed new bearings. Didn't leave till 1 o'clock so had made good time to get here - amazing that he found the place as well as quite well hidden. He needs to be back in Leicester by the weekend - hoping to get home by Saturday so can have a rest day before back to work on Monday. Noticed in Edinburgh that Kumeran had a pair of bright orange Crocs ('leisure' time or non-cycle shoes) - similar to the more muted colours of mine and Rogers that we are also carrying with us.

I'd spoken to Clive and his next door neighbour and arranged to pick up the key to the house sometime after 4pm. So as under 30 miles (but in the end did the exra 6 miles due to the transporter bridge being shut)we weren't in any great rush to get going today. It had been really cold overnight, but couldn't believe it when woke up to beautiful warm sunshine - wonderful and luxurious.

Stopped at Morrisons in Hartlepool to get some bread, but decided we'd have a cooked breakfast once again - going to have to stop this before it gets to be a habit...., met up with a woman who was very interested in our trip and who actually had heard about the North Sea route, and lived on the route to the south of the town, very friendly and chatty so gave her the blog details and if you are reading this - hi there.

Could have spent ages relaxing in the cafe but decided to spend a couple of hours at the Historic Quayside and museum at Hartlepool. Really excellent museum - very informative summaries of the different periods of history. There is Hartlepool connection of sorts in my family history - wait for it - my great grandmother (maternal side) was married three times. Her first husband died of TB on his way to Quebec to meet up with my great grandmother and her two young children who had travelled out there by ship a month before with his brother and wife. They came back to Liverpool, where my great grandmother got married once again to a Catholic barman called Shortsinger, who was a lodger in her house, along with her brother who was also a barman. She had three more children to this husband - one died aged before he was a year old, another (Joe) drowned when the Express of Ireland ship sank in the St Lawrence Seaway in Canada in 1914 (the greatest maritime disaster in Canadian history) - not long after the Titanic went down and with more loss of life - he was a young steward at the time. It was an old black and white postcard type photo I came across in my mum's photos of a group of stewards in front of the Empress of Ireland that got me interested in researching my family history over the winter. It's only recently that I've realised that one of the stewards on the postcard is Joe himself. The third child of this second marriage was a girl,who married someone called Harry Box - they had no children and both were dead from TB by the mid 1930's. The second husband, Shortsinger - his father was a head constable in Belfast according to his marriage certificate - was committed to the mental asylum in St Helens (where they sent them from Liverpool) and died from TB there. I didn't realise until now that there is a relationship between insanity and TB. Just before I came away I found a site called the Blacksheep Site - a list of people's names who are mentioned in newspaper cuttings etc for various (good and bad) reasons - and he is mentioned on this list - couldn't get the details on-line - you have to send away for them with an old fashioned cheque payment - so left this to my brother to do - any news as yet Derek about this? On the death certificate it says he was born in Baden, Germany - but I think he was probably born in the Belfast area to German parents who had come over from the Baden area. Again, just before I left I had just made the connection between a watchmaker (Shortsinger) in early 1900's Belfast (not a common name) and the more german version of the name -Scherzinger and also a connection with Beringer - all watchmakers. A couple of families within the UK in the 1911 census - again all watchmakers. Look forward to researching this again next winter when back from this trip. The Scherzingers/Shortsingers are buried in the Falls Road Cemetery in Belfast - where the hunger strikers are also buried. His father, the head constable of Belfast had renamed himself as Singer rather than Shortsinger. Lewis Hamilton went out with/ is still going out with Nichole Scherzinger - who is in Pussycat Dolls - played in Belfast so if put Scherzinger and Belfast in, get loads of hits for her. Interestingly her ancestry is reported to be 1/2 Filipino, 1/4 Russian and 1/4 Hawaiian - born in Hawaii and brought up in Kentucky (!!!!) Just looked it up - the surname might come from her step father??

After Shortsinger died in the asylum my great grandmother then got married once again for the third time to Thomas Francis Reilly, a dock worker. Her last child, my grandmother was born shortly after, and I can find nothing much else about him out at the moment - he just disappears off the scene. My grandmother and great grandmother were in service together in the Todmorden area following this - and were involved in a car accident according to my aunt - ?something to do with the brakes??? - and they had to do a moonlight flit at some point.

Anyway the Hartlepool connection is with the first child, Edith, born to my great grandmother - a half sister to my grandmother - i.e. same mother, different fathers. Edith was in service on the Wirral and met and married a guy from Hartlepool who was something to do with marine engines and was visiting the Camel Laird dockyards in Birkenhead at the time - and she married and moved to Hartlepool for a while. We have some 1914 Liverpool newspapers (unfortunately falling to bit now) which were posted to a Hartlepool address (presumably to Edith) that tell the story at the time about the sinking of the Empress of Ireland - with her half brother Joe on board. What amazes me the most about these newspapers is that it is only 6 weeks before Word War One started and there is absolutely nothing to indicate any problems at all of this nature - indeed the TUC or similar (from memory) are reported as having a meeting where their German counterparts have been invited to speak at the meeting.

So, found it very interesting to goto the museum at Hartlepool and get a feel for the town - it used to be an incredibly important ship building place.

I didn't realise that when William conquered us in 1066 it took 40 years to sort out the north of Britain and bring it under their control- leaving no village inhabited between York and Durham due to either famine or fighting. A family that had come over with William and fought with him - the Brus family - were rewarded land in North Yorkshire and where Hartlepool is now. They built the town up an it became the gateway for merchants on their way to Durham. It was also used as a staging post when fighting the Scots, and due to being invaded and fought over became the most strongly fortified port in the north east. Following the black death of the 1300's Hartlepool went into decline when Newcastle gained the monopoly for selling wool and the right to collect taxes from Hartlepool. It was a Royalist stronghold in the Civil War, but brought into line by the help of a Scottish army at the bequest of the Government - it is reputed that the Royalist soldiers left without firing a shot. Hartlepool was a Scottish garrison town for three years after this. By the 1800s fishing had become important to the town, rich merchants were starting to retire here and also Hartlepool was becoming a holiday resort destination. With the coming of the railways to rival railway companies built two different ports about half a mile apart at Hartlepool - the Old of the East Docks and the West Docks. Both companies spent about £1.5 million each - at a time when a servant would earn £10 a year and a luxury house would cost £1,000.

There is a Monkey legend - that a French ship was wrecked by a storm at Hartlepool and the only survivor was a monkey. Mistaking it for a Frenchman it was hung by local people as a spy. This is reputed to be a legend that has grown up from the music hall tradition. Despite this, H'Angus the Monkey is the mascot for the football team and much loved by the locals. As we went past the ground of the local football team I noticed it as sponsored by Tescos - quite a smart move as next door was Morrisons, and over the road (only saw it later)was Asda - and no actual Tesco store in sight.

I'd forgotten that Hartlepool (plus Scarborough and Whitby) was where the first casualties of the first world war happened - 16th December 1914 - they were attacked by three German warships, following a defeat by the Germans at the hands of the British Navy in the South Atlantic - the Germans wanted some good news for their people to counterweight their defeat, and also hoped that the attack would make the British public against carrying on with the war. All three British coastal towns were within a days travel of the German naval base at Heligoland - which in itself is another interesting story but I'll leave that for now until we get to that area later in our trip. Over 100 people were killed that day.

By the by, learnt that in the 16th Century Rodrigo de Jerez was the first recorded European smoker - people thought he was possessed by the devil as he had smoke coming out of his mouth, and led to him being imprisoned by the Spanish inquisition for 7 years.

They also have a couple of ships at the port- the PSS (Paddleship steamer) Wingfield Castle which used to be the ferry boat across the Humber before the bridge was built. Didn't get to look round the second one, the HMS Trincomalee

as had to pay £7.50 each for the pleasure and time was moving on. Amazing really, following our conversation with our friend Kumaran at the campsite earlier in the day - he was from Sri Lanka, the old name for Ceylon, and Trincomalee is a deep water port on the east of the island. (Roger knew this from his dad visiting there on a ship during the war). The ship itself is the oldest British frigate of her era (Napoleonic) still afloat.

Well, as you can see, we spent a fair bit of time at the museum - but time was getting on so set off to cycle to Clives via the transporter bridge - and then along past the Middlesborough football club, and the very fancy new huge piece of sculpture they are erecting nearby - looks like a circular concentina of wire that has been drawn apart with the middle being quite narrow still. Too wet and miserable for a photo to show you what I mean - which just about brings us up to date.

Took very little persuasion from either of us to decide to stay an extra day here at Clive's - a real luxury - we owe you plenty for this Clive - a bottle or two of wine at the next university reunion at the very least I think. Clive is getting his bottom measured over in Amsterdam, lucky fellow - for a custom made bicycle seat. He and his girlfriend Aafke are cycling along the Rhine next month - we followed their planned route three years go when we cycled to the Black Sea - down the Rhine, and along the Danube.

Roger has just cycled into Guisborough and back to get some goodies to eat while I write this blog - arrived back and feeding me treats and cups of tea now. Another load of washing to do, another bath to have and another evening lazing on a comfy chair and sleeping in a soft bed .....

Crimdon, north of Hartlepool

Computer nearly out of power, managed to find the only place to cam anywhere in the area, but as only cost us £3 (paid as much £17) not too surprised that all there is, is one toilet and a water tap - so no socket (not had access to one for three or four days now) so won't be able to write the blog up yet again tonight. Staying at Clive's house tomorrow - even though he is away - so very kindly left the key with his neighbour for us - can't wait for a night of R and R - will charge the lap top up there and write up the blog. Brrr it's been chilly today - what a drop in temperature. We sent a second parcel of stuff home the other day, including the hottie and the flask, so know I will miss the comfort of a hottie for my feet tonight!!

Belford to Walkworth to Sunderland (1, more to come)

Sat in the cafe Morrison's at Sunderland, just had scrambled egg on toast and a lovely cup of tea - camped last night just down the road from here but couldn't get a 3G signal so couldn't write up the blog (can't do it in advance which is very frustrating). We had a really good day's cycling yesterday as not as warm and the sun not out for most of the day - and more importantly there were very few hills - so did 50 miles, bypassed going along the Tyne into Newcastle itself and took the cycle ferry across the Tyne instead to South Shields, and camped a few miles down the coast. Needed to send an email to a friend from university, Clive Tear who lives in Redcar where we hope to be tomorrow night now - and couldn't text/phone him because my defunct waterlogged phone from Hoy had the details on it when it died a death - and couldn't get onto my emails to find the email he'd sent me with the details on - so hence why we have stopped off in Morrisons - enjoying the warmth as so much colder today. Will write up the blog properly tonight hopefully, and reply to various emails I've had etc. Time to get going agin now - Roger has just gone to do the daily shop while I finish this off.

Dunbar to Berwick Upon Tweed to Belford (near Bamburgh Castle)

Rained a little overnight at Dunbar but looked as though going to be a hot day so Roger actually donned an orange t-shirt and some lycra cycling shorts - thought that this might be enough to bring on the rainclouds if anything would. Thought it was going to be a relatively boring 'transit' sort of a day, when we found ourselves cycling alongside the A1 on a tarmac cycle way - into a cool head wind - that is until the route deviated away from the side of the A1 to follow the side roads. There is very little choice when the A1 is out of the equation - so you go in a variety of different directions and dog legs, up and down whatever gradient is in the way. Down a very steep narrow valley, to Cove Bay - with a static caravan park taking over te bay at the bottom, through a shallow ford and then an extremely steep and narrow climb up the other side - had to work hard to just push the bikes up, never mind attempt to cycle up it, not helped by many cars and tractors coming up and down - not really enough room for the width of a bike and panniers, a cyclist pushing and the width of a car as well. The sun made it's mind up to really shine down on us, and there wasn't a breath of breeze down the valley, so the sweat was really flowing. A long slow slog of a climb after this - everytime you thought 'this must be the top', you went over the brow of the hill - and it wasn't!! Up on to moorland, and realised when I heard the bleating of lambs playing in the fields that we'd not seen many sheep for a few days - just plenty of cattle and calves. Then along relatively empty country lanes working our way back to the coast and the small town of Eyemouth, about 10 miles as the crow flies north of Berwick-Upon-Tweed. Shay emailed me to say she'd been watching Billy Connolly on TV visiting Inverness - and that 'Inver' means 'mouth of' as in 'mouth of the river Ness' - I was only wondering to Roger the other day what 'Inver' meant- and now I know. There is a River Eye, so Eyemouth could actually be called Invereye!!! Coming from the north into the town, you would have no reason to know it's there -you can't see any evidence of the place until you actually get there - after a cool descent down to the small harbour there, felt cold in the breeze and sat in our windproofs and ate a large portion of chips between us and had a cuppa to warm us up.A real seaside little town, ad nether of us have ever heard of the place before.

Always knew we'd have a climb out of Eyemouth - but didn't expect a 200 metre plus one, followed by lots of additional steep short ups and downs in the evening sunshine. So, with a sting in the tail it was out of Scotland and into England = 1 country 'done', another 6 to go. Great to eventually arrive in Berwick - a short detour to a caravan park that didn't take tents, a ride around the fortifications and then a ride over the old bridge over the river Tweed. There are three different bridges very close together, including the railway one we travelled over on our trip up.

Eventually found the one site in the area around the town that takes tents - a huge site full of kids and people - and the most expensive to date - £17 for the night. Next to a couple with a toddler - who screamed for ages as we were trying to go to sleep - could just about put up with the noise - like the barking of dogs in the kennels at the vets I can zone it out, but the dad kept talking to him and then started singing to him which I found much more annoying than the crying!!! Also three kids playing football in the pitch black very nearby and making much noise.... am a grumpy old lady or what!!! The only place we've been to that has a bath though - so had a very enjoyable soak reading my book. Even though it had felt coolish most of the day, we'd ridden for much of the time in t-shirts - and had both been caught out by the strength of the sun - and both had sunburnt arms - in my case due to all the gallons of sweat I lose while struggling up the hills cooking me in the sun - Roger sweats very little compared to me - my head just drips with sweat though - not a pretty site!!!

The lady at the campsite said a thunderstorm was forecast overnight - but it never arrived thank goodness. Both feeling a bit jaded today, and not helped by a hard 22 miles of tough (for loaded tourers) off road sections along the coast towards Lindisfarne. Lots of people about as it is Saturday and such a lovely day - found a quiet spot in the sand dunes overlooking the causeway to Lindisfarne in the distance - watching a never ending procession of vehicles going over onto the island. We've been over before to the island so were glad to give it a miss today. So hot ..... mind you the little black thundercloud was back following me this afternoon - Roger was totally unimpressed by the amount of steep uphills we struggled up, to immediately comeback down again, to go back up once again..... especially when you could see the relatively flat A1 in the distance not too far away. Arrived at the village of Bellford, not far fro the castle at Bamburgh - only 3 oclock but we were both very hot and ready to get out of the sun - and protect our sunburnt arms - and there was a campsite shown on the map - meant deviating off the route down steep hill into the village itself - so kept my fingers crossed that it would be there - didn't want the wrath of Roger to descend on me if we had to climb back up the hill again and cycle on. Glad to say that there was a campsite, quite a big one, tucked away with the Co Op opposite for a lovely cold ice lolly and a litre or three of apple juice and diet coke. not much shade so sat on two plastic chairs we found in the shade of a tree at the side of the access road into this section of the site reading etc. Wonder how hot it will be tomorrow?

Prestongrange Industrial Museum

Edinburgh

Edinburgh to Dunbar

Sat enjoying the last of the sunshine, showered but not fed as yet at a deserted campsite at Dunbar, down the A1 on the coast between Edinburgh and Berwick-Upon-Tweed. Really surprising as appears to be a large site, and the last week or so the campsites we have stayed at have been getting very busy, with tents as well as caravans and campervans. The two Australians Ross and Bev camped next to us last night (they're here with their daughter and her partner - but they're off to Ireland on the train and ferry today) are off to Cornwall on the train to meet up with some British friends they have made on their travels in the past - they're walking part of the coast walk. They very kindly gave us their email and address details - they live at Nethercote in New South Wales, 250 miles south of Sydney and not far from the border with Victoria. Had rained with a very wet and heavy drizzle overnight but stopped just about at the same time as we got up. An enjoyable ride into Edinburgh along lots of hidden snickets to a high level old railway that took us right into the centre. Cycled down a road parallel to Princess Street, and then turned off to cross over this famous thoroughfare by the Walter Scott Memorial, went into the Sainsbury supermarket there - photos of the missing woman all over the shop windows - had read about this in the papers last week but hadn't realised that the last photo they have of her is coming out of this particular Sainsbury's, after catching the bus to work, getting off it near the supermarket and calling in - then she just disappeared - amazing isn't it that you can go missing at that time of the day. I see they are suggesting it could be a very probable murder now - at lest that's what I presumed the paper sellers billboard headlines meant. A very vocal big issue seller stood outside the shop door - thought they weren't supposed to aggressively sell their magazines? - he's obviously doing OK for him self as he fished a mobile out of his pocket to take a phone call!

Crossed the road and found ourselves a bench looking up at the castle - still grey at this point and looking as though it might rain. Roger had purloined a jar of jam from the Freegon pile - I told him it was a disaster waiting to happen - and yes it had started to leak fro the carrier bag he'd put it in. In 1976 (so a very long time ago) I walked the Pennine Way (not sure how we managed it as in the days before proper gagoules etc. The days of H frame rucksacks, large and heavy tent and groundsheet, we carried eggs in a plastic egg carrier and had bacon and egg every morning, plus jam and bread- only the jam leaked all over my rucksack as we walked through the Kielder Forest - never walked so fast in my life as we pursued by the largest warm of flies and insects that you can imagine - boy did it take some cleaning up). Hadn't been able to make any jam butties in advance for our lunch at the campsite as we had run out of bread - decided it would look far too down and out to be sat on the bench on the main street of Edinburgh though making jam butties up as the tourists wandered past.... Made do with a shortbread biscuit or two instead.

Up The Mound to the castle area and across the other side of the city - not as well signposted - so would take a small snicket route that would bring you out on another busy road but with no sign indicating which way you went, and the new map I'm using now is not nearly as good as the ones we've used to date. Every time we stopped to look at the map we were pounced on by locals wanting to help, but as they were never cyclists they didn't know the answer either. Eventually one of us would spot a possible sign a few hundred yards down the road (usually Roger - eagle eyes). Learnt that you have to go right to the end when the signpost tells you to cycle down what looks like a dead end as the track we are looking for will invariably be there hidden away at right angles somewhere. Looked at one point s though we were going into the garages of a large block of apartments, near Holyrood House - but took you instead into a long long dark tunnel, 200 yards or more long - and leaving the busy city behind you, you popped out on a disused railway track in the middle of the country. A lovely long gradual downhill slope that seemed to et up the miles. We appeared to be following the route of the Edinburgh Marathon which is being held this weekend - they were busy putting out the 'no parking between Sat and Sunday' signs all along the route - hope it isn't as hot as today for them. Just outside Musselburgh we came across the Prestongrange Industrial Museum. Both Roger and I are interested in Industrial history, and when Roger noted that the museum was free(!!!), we stopped off in the heat and sun for lunch (yes, jam butties (lots of jam on them and then chucked the jar away) and had a cuppa before spending an enjoyable hour or so wandering around the site - perhaps one of the first 'industrial' estates in Scotland. Coal was mined around this area - the Cistercian monks in the 1100's were among the first miners. There was good coal, difficult to get and expensive so sold to the rich of Edinburgh and the easily accessible grotty stuff that stank and belched out bad gasses - and in fact became banned from use in the end. At various times over the centuries, along with coal mining here there have been glass making, brick making and pottery. Wouldn't warrant it now as it is a tranquil and grass and daisy covered site, with artists dotted around painting and drawing the scene. There was a very busy port on the site - but it has now been filled in - but in the past it was used by the local children to swim in as the water was warm from the discharge from the factory/coal mine complex.

Hard to get going again but over 20 more miles to go before a campsite. Every sort of type of surface this afternoon - including 4 miles gradually up hill on a gravelly track of a disused railway that seemed very hard work.

The sun is just going over the yardarm. As I've been writing this we've had tea and are now sat here drinking a cuppa, eating sweets (Haribo for Roger, miniature jelly babies for Sue) and listening to the birds all around us. All is well with us tonight.

Glenrothes to Edinburgh

670 miles cycled now, another two days and we'll be over the border and back into England. Somehow today has felt like we've been playing hookie from the cycle trip, don't know why because we've done nearly 40 miles, the weather has been overcast and there have been plenty of ups and downs - but because there were no facilities at the campsite last night (being refurbished) we were off and away by 8.30am.

Talking of thieving birds (in a previous blog) we suffered another sneaky attack yesterday. While we were enjoying the sunshine of our private campsite we put the stuff that needed to be kept cool under some trees in the corner of the field. Roger suddenly looked up and saw a large blackbird attacking the loaf of bread - had to cut various sections of the loaf out to get rid of the peck marks - meant for some very strange shaped butties today.

As we had a free nights camping we celebrated by treating ourselves to bacon butties and a cup of tea from a shop we passed - sitting on a wall at the side of the main road, with the view of the dust-cart that parked up in front of us. Roger really knows the way to a girls heart. A few miles further on came across the first Asda of the trip - do like Asda -went in really to buy a couple of cheap paperbacks as finished all the ones I brought with me (and swapped for new ones at hostels etc) - seemed strange buying books from Asda when we'd just cycled past the enormous Amazon warehouse. Can't do without a book to read..... Also stocked up on milk bottle sweets and Haribo Star Mix (for Roger) and Jelly Babies and Jelly Beans (for Sue).

A very varied terrain today - a bit of everything thrown into the mix, including 'ducking and diving' around towns along little snickets and hidden pathways. Stopped at Silver Sands Beach for lunch - a lovely little beach with a small kiosk selling hot tea (2 cups each) and ice cream (Sue's second of the trip) - lovely view across the Firth of Forth over to Edinburgh and Arthur's Seat on the opposite side. Over the Forth Road bridge to Queensferry and instantly into the hurly burly of very busy traffic - but the route soon took us away from this and up 'Nob's Hill' past some lovely large house, many of which were modern houses that both Roger and I like. There was a campsite shown on the cycle route map, about 4 miles from the centre of Edinburgh - off the route and down a long long hill to the water line of the Firth of Forth - very glad to see a sign saying there was actually a campsite when we got to the bottom as would have meant a trek back up it again if there hadn't been. One of only two campsites in the Edinburgh area - the other is right over the the other side of the city - we stayed there 3 years ago with Elsie and Dean on our way to Iceland with the vehicles. About 10 small tents pitched on our intimate tent field - has an open sided but covered camp kitchen with a couple of benches and tables which is great - am sat at one writing this blog up, listening to all the birds singing around us. Was awakeearly this morning listening to a cacophony of birdsong from all around - 360 degree stereo sound from the ring of trees around the tent. I'm reassured from this trip that all is well with lots of the bird species - there are so many birds!!! It's a good job they don't attack people or else it would be really bad news for the human population. The last few days as we've been cycling down hills we are passing through huge numbers of small flying insects - our yellow windproofs or teeshirts are almost black at times, there are so many of them. Your mouth, eyes, nose and throat get them stuck - so if there are so many of them why do the bloody birds have to keep pinching our food......

Next to where I am sat writing this is a pile of half used and open food and looks remarkably like 'freegon' food - hope so anyway as Roger has been and taken the coffee, I'v had a peanut butter buttie and two half used calor gas cylinders have found their way into our tent - we're struggling at the moment to find anywhere to buy any - called in a caravan place we cycled past today but no joy.

Just now about 10 cycle campers have just arrived - lovely to be sat here showered, doing my blog, tent up, Roger cooking tea and watching them unload etc - is usually the other way round with us being late arrivals - we were here by 4.30pm today. Also a single guy has just turned up - if you think we're mad then he's madder still as imagine carrying all the camping and cooking stuff on your own!!

An Australian couple here, so been really interesting talking to them - telling us about disused railway line cycle track routes in Australia that they recommend.

We're back on track with the schedule today if we don't have a day off tomorrow - neither of us too worried about this as we looked around the city when we were here 3 years ago.

Shay asked for a photo of the bikes loaded up - will do this tomorrow - look very elegant really when loaded, looks like a lot of stuff when scattered to the four winds of the campsite!!! Felt very heavy today when having to push them up some short but extremely steep sections - could hardly manage it - can't believe that we have been cycling up hills with all that weight and managing itwithout too much agro (most of the time anyway!!).

Carnoustie to St Andrews to Glenrothes

What a difference 2 days makes. So nice to not be whinging about how cold and windy it has been. After some rain overnight while camping at the lovely site at Carnoustie woke to a bright and sunny morning with some heat to go with it (still a definite coolness to the breeze though) - a lovely feeling waking up to the warm inside of the tent. We took advantage of the fact that it was warm and dry to sort through things and make a pile of stuff to post home - including one of my two fleeces (bought a lighter weight zip up one when we were waiting in Aberdeen to sail to the Shetlands as realised just how cold it was going to be...) - too much for the jiffy bag Roger bought the other day, so stopped off at the Spar/Post Office and were able to buy a fold up box (something to than EBay for - the need for cost effective packaging materials to be kept by the post offices) and send a boxful home to the vets surgery in Rawtenstall for them to keep for us till we get home.

A lovely days ride - flat all the way till St Andrews so a bit of a treat. Virtually traffic free most of the day as well, or on very small and empty back roads, so even more of a treat. Cycled past lots of golf courses - all looked very busy, even though a Monday morning. Past a train station called Golf Street, worrying when the signs say you ride at your own risk if hit by a golf ball, especially when

riding past the practice area that was teeming with people and flying golf balls. The 'richest square mile in Europe' (in the Victorian era) area on the outskirts of Dundee was a bit of a disappointment - I was expecting some fantastic Victorian mansions but if there were ay they were hidden behind a park and woodland area- I presume the jute merchants liked to live here so that they could look out over the Tay estuary which the area overlooks and see their vessels arriving back at Dundee, a short distance up the river mouth. An interesting mile cycling through the dock area of Dundee before getting to the road bridge. You had to go through a security gate to access the cycle path, and the same at the the end - but all that separated you from the 'secure' dock area was a low level fence - and that was not for all the distance either. You could have easily gone 'walkabouts' - but presume they probably monitor you at either end to make sureyou come ut again within a reasonable time. Took us a while to work out how to get onto the bridge with the bikes as they are doing building works on the access areas so most of it courdoned off for non vehicular traffic. Found the lift that takes you and your bike up to the level of the road bridge - in the central reservation area that is dedicated for cyclists and walkers. About a mile long or so - and making the joints much weaker than they gradually goes uphill all the way across. Could see the Tay railway bridge further up river that we'd come over on our railway journey north a month ago on our way up to start this trip. The original Tay bridge that collapsed was constructed as by normal methods for the time - when the holes of the different sections didn't line up as well as they should they would heat the rivet up and hammer it into the compromised holes, consequently making the bridge much weaker than it was supposed to be. At the same time as the railway bridge disaster,in Buxton they were using the same construction methods on the huge dome they were building at the hospital there (now part of Buxton university) and had to stop and reconsider how to get the riveting done in a better way.

At the other side of the bridge stopped at a grassy area by the Tay Bridge Kiosk to enjoy the sunshine, the view and are butties. Also I had the first ice cream of the trip - strawberry and very delicious. On the southern side of the Tay estuary we worked our way round past the small harbour and lighthouses of Tayport,a short distance by water away from the jute merchants mansions of Broughty Ferry opposite, to the flat forested spur of Tentsmuir Forest with a 4 mile section around the edge on very pleasant forest tracks. Cycled past a group of kids - one obnoxious little do gooder told both of us that 'We should be riding with our helmets on' - we'd taken them off as we were not on the road. Such a nanny state culture here - in the Netherlands three years ago when we were cycling down the Rhine river we were looked on as very strange by the local kids because we had our cycle hats on - they thought we must be doing some really dangerous sort of off road cycling. Having said that we do wear on helmets most of the time, but if on vehicle free sections of route and it's hot we'll usually take them off and allow somewhere for the sweat to go!! Roger and I have been reading a book by Val McDermid called The`Distant Echo which is based around St Andrews and the area from there to Edinburgh - mentions the forest in the book - as where reports come in on a regular basis of ritual killings of animals going on there..... All we found was an old ice house in the depths of the trees (but the sea not far away) - its where they kept salmon fresh by filling it with ice brought by ships arriving into Dundee and from the surrounding lakes if they froze up. Now a sanctuary for bats that can live up to 2 years and have a wing span of foot or more.

Cycled into St Andrews past the golf course used for the Open - presume it must be soon as they were getting it ready for the big event - with signage and ropeways and grandstand seating areas. Past the Royal and Ancient Golf Club House and the Old Course, where a small road appears to go through the play area - and saw someone cycling along it while shots were being played over her head -with a loud 'fore' being shouted. Lots of tourists and students and golfers sat at the viewpoint nearby enjoying the last of the nice day (had cooled off and gone a bit overcast by now). Eventually found somewhere to buy food from - amazingly for what is quite a large town and full of students - there is only a Tesco Extra near town, and as it was after 5 by now was packed out with students chatting to each other, flirting, making group buying decisions with kitty money etc-made me feel very old and grumpy as they kept being in the way of where you wanted to be!!

The sting in the tail for the day was the fact that the campsite for St Andrews was at the top of a long hill - which we both pushed our bikes up. A large caravan park with mainly holiday home vans on the site - terraced down the hillside towards the St Andrews bay and overlooking the ruined castle and town - would have been a spectacular view from our tent spot if we'd been able to see through the caravans. More like a mini holiday camp type of site with bar and restaurant area, never our favourites - expensive, don't really cater for the needs of a camper - and especially not from a cycle campers point of view. Lovely warm shower this morning though - down to 5 degrees C last night, so my hottie was still used,but for the first night under canvas this trip I wasn't wearing my socks in bed, and also didn't wear my fleece to bed. We wee woken from deep sleeps about 5.30 this morning - a seagull had seized the opportunity of dragging a carrier bag of food out from under the flap of the front vestibule - and it wasn't stuck out in anyway - the little thief had to work at getting it - the seagull and his mates had then managed to get`the cheese slices and baby sweetcorns out and were having a great time with their beaks digging into them by the time Roger got his underpants on and went out to sort it out. Little - sorry BIG - buggers. Had to chop the pecked area of cheese away so something left to go on our butties for today. Those beaks are sharp - they'd gone right through the tough plastic container of the cheese.

A lovely warm day today, the cool breeze just right for cycling without too much sweating - cycled in cutoffs and a teashirt - and no coat or windproof - amazing.... Much more up and down cycling today but lovely countryside and views. Due to a distinct lack of possible places to camp between here and Edinburgh we decided to stop at 2pm whe we arrived at Markinch, near to Glenrothes and north of Kirkcaldy (mentioned in the Val McDermid novel). While I was food shopping in a very low key supermarket Roger was chatted up by an 80 year old waiting for the bus who had been a cyclist. He must have soon sized Roger up because he asked him if he was 'really a car person rather than a bike one?' You have to admire Roger for undertaking this trip with me given his hate relationship with hills and wind when in association with bikes.

Found the campsite very easily and looking forward to having a lazy afternoon lounging in the sun, but drat - it wasn't open as the toilet block was being refurbished and wouldn't open till June. No real plan B at this stage but the builders came up to us and suggested we found ourself a spot in the trees, and told us we could use their loo and showed us where to get water from. So in an idyllic spot all on our own lying in the sun reading and doing the blog. Sun just starting to lose its heat so warm clothes are gradually going on. No access to an electric socket tonight so might be the first hottie free night Should get to the outskirts of Edinburgh tomorrow to a campsite shown on the map - if it's still there of course and open....