Did anyone spot my deliberate mistake in a previous posting? I said we were cycling east from John O'Groats into an easterly wind - what I meant was the exact opposite - we were cycling west into a westerly wind - not much difference....
Left the warmth of Sandra's Hostel in Thurso into a dank, miserable, wet, cold and windy morning, cycling west still along the north coast. Looked as though the weather was set in for the day but fortunately by the time wegot to Dounraey (of powerstation fame) was starting to buck up. We were still cycling into the wind, and we still needed all our warm clothes on, but at least the rain stopped. Really enjoyed the days cycling, but the hardest day yet - 45 miles of up and down over remote fellsides, up and down 100 - 200m hills, getting back down to sea level in between. Heard the first cuckoo of the year, saw my first bluebells of the year, and spotted the first deer of our trip. About a dozen end to end cyclists came past the opposite way in dribs and drabs, all very pleased that they were nearly at John o'Groats. At this point I need to own up to the fact that it was only very recently that I realised what Le Jog stood for- have always fancied doing a Le Jog car rally - especially since Roger and Richard did up the Willies Jeep - but that's another story. Anyway, as all you good folk will already know, Le Jog means Lands End to Jogn O'Groats.....
As we were 2/3 of the way up a very long uphill section of moorland, having watched many of the pairs of cyclists zooming down the opposite way an older couple stopped on their way down for a chat- they'd cycled from Lands End but up the west coast of Scotland, where going up to Jo'G, then onto Inverness to stay with friends then cycling back to the Lakes where they live - turned out they knew the guy from the scrap metal place at the bottom of our hill where Roger weighs his scrap in - he is a very good cyclist, won competitions etc.
Decided to cycle all the way to Tongue, over mainly single track A roads later on in the day, a. because we would be back on 'schedule' following our early finish the day before in the rain at the hostel in Thurso, but also because the campsite didn't look that exciting at Bettyhill 14 miles before Tongue, it was at the top of a hill (on the route) so we'd got one less to do than if it had been at the bottom of the hill where we expected it, and also we'd been told that the hostel at Tongue (youth hostel) was worth going to. A shop at the top of this particular hill, so a pie each to help us on the way and off we went again.
Roger was not at all impressed when we arrived at Tongue, high up overlooking the village and the very picturesque inlet of Kyle of Tongue as we discovered the route turned south up at this level - and the village and the youth hostel were way below - a long free wheel down for 3km to the former hunting lodge down at sea level - a very posh one and cost us £43 for a double room, with no ensuite - but decided to join the youth hostel association for 310 each (ok for hostels world wide) so saved £4 off this room price - lovely and warm though and nice comfy beds. Asked again if we were by any chance oap's!!! - may be time to say we are and get some discounts....
Used up the two heavy Wayfarer meals of beans and sausages that we've been carting around for tea- we got a whole load relatively cheap for our Cape to Cape expedition that we were chucked off (left over from a trip into the desert by another group). A group of End to Enders there with their SAG truck driver- they've been staying in £19 Travel Lodge rooms - where ever they decide to finish for the day on the route the driver picks them up and their bikes, takes them to where ever they have been pre-booked into and then brings them back plus bikes next day to where they stopped the previous day. They were on road bikes, started from Lands End 12 days previously, only hit rain and bad weather as got towards the north of Scotland 2 days ago. The most miles they'd done in one day was 120 miles, but were getting fedup with the constant cycling and thinking it would be good to do it on a Hybrid bike and much slower, and see something of the country as they had seen very little on their way up - keeping to main road from the sound of it. They had the largest 2 pans of pasta and tuna and sweetcorn I've ever seen for their meal - which is saying something for those of you who know the appetites Roger and I have - especially when exercising....
Thursday morning, election day - but certainly no election fever up here in Tongue. Unfortunately, for the first time, we haven't voted - didn't know we would be away until it was too late to organise a postal vote. feel bad about that. A fantastic days cycle, despite rain and overcast to begin with. After such an unpromising start the weather gradually cheered up, and were even some patches of blue sky appearing from time to time. Heard a cuckoo again - loud and clear and very persistent in the valley below. Disturbed a large herd of deer as we cycled along - a young one getting left behind as they bounded off and then across the road in front of us. Was expecting this to be the toughest day as over a couple of high fell side areas- but due to the strong northerly wind helping us along as we went south, it actually felt for the first time ever that there was more downhill than uphill - and even though we started at sea level and were still not back down that low when we finished. A lovely days cycling along loch sides and along moorland in glorious scenery with mountains near by with snow in their sheltered gullies still. 38 miles later saw us arrive in the lovely village of Lairg, and we were putting the tent up in the weak but not very warm sunshine
by 4 oclock. The cheapest campsite yet - £6.50 - been £10 usually, good value. 2 ducks sunbathing on our pitch when we got there - thought they were painted stone ones for a while. The duck pond was over the fence - and once we started cooking tea along came all their mates to join us. Still cold but much warmer than it has been at night time in the tent on this trip. Roger met up with a guy while washing up the tea dishes - is touring with a small caravan - virtually no one else here - and where does he come from - but Rossendale!! Used to work for the council. Such a small world at times.
After two hard days (lots of hills) were looking forward to an easier day - some down hill and then flat according to the cycle route profile - and that was correct - but the wind was a head wind again and somehow it felt like really hard work today - probably tiered legs though from the previous days. Roger is having a bit of trouble with his knees on the hills - but can't say I have any real excuse. We got to Tain, 28 miles from when we started - a beautiful sunny day despite the clouds, but unless sheltered from the wind it was a bit breezy. Did cycle for the first time with half gloves though and a windproof rather than the full waterproofs, and only one layer on underneath rather than two or even three layers. Stopped off at the very short Shin Falls, between Lairg and Invershin - a very pretty little spot with snowdrops on the bankings. Stopped at Boner Bridge for lunch, even bought a paper to read about the elections but not very up to date news as still awaiting the outcome at the moment. Over the bridge over the Kyle of Sutherland - the third bridge to stand here. The first was built by Thomas Telford but destroyed in a flood. The third one was opened in the 1970's.
The campsite where we are tonight has made a good job of a not very promising position - it is a narrow triangle, with a road running one side (luckily not very busy), a single track railway on another side, and a roundabout and approach road to the massive bridge over the Dornoch Firth. Sounds worse than it actually is, but about 5 trains have ben past, 5 foot from our tent- the whole ground trembles and vibrates as they go past. We re about 40 miles from Inverness so hope to get there tomorrow evening and stay in the youth hostel there - going via the Nigg ferry that goes over to Cromerty. We were at the campsite by 3 pm, and could have carried on but both felt like we had had enough for the day. Found a sheltered spot from the wind (if not from the trains) and enjoyed the sunshine. A laundry here so good to have both the time and the inclination to do the washing after 2 and a half weeks.
Caught up with emails etc - many thanks to everyone who has written - lovely to catch up with you all. - and yes Emma I did get your posting as a reply from mum's (grandma's) computer - what did you have to do? Thanks for that.
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