Lerwick, Shetland to Kirkwall, Orkney

We arrived at the ferry terminal 2 miles out of Kirkwall at 11pm last night - according to the weather forecast from Met Check (gives a detailed 2hourly forecast) it was supposed to be cloudy but dry. Well, it wasn't!! Cycled off the ferry into very wet rain and pitch black. We found our way to where the campsite was supposed to be - next to the leisure centre, but there were no streetlights and impossible to see very much - we had to keep getting off the bikes to shine our lights onto signs as we'd been looking for the leisure centre. The only good news was that Kirkwall was alot less hilly than Lerwick, and the temperature felt alot warmer as there was hardly any wind. After 5 minutes of not getting very far in finding the campsite we gave in (didn't take any real persuasion given how wet it was) and decided to follow the signs we had seen to a hostel - turned out to be a minutes ride away. Felt bad turning up at after 11.30 at night - had to ring up on a phone number for someone to drive over and let us in. £17 each per night so very reasonable for a twin bedded room ensuite, kitchen, dining room and lounge area. All very civilised indeed - quite taken with these hostels - especially as they all tend to have free wifi - but can be a bit difficult about letting you have access to blog sites - so often end up having to use my plug-in internet broadband dongle (goes in one of the USB sockets, and if it can find a 3G connection you then have an internet connection).

Spent yesterday exploring the Shetland Museum on the Lerwick waterside - an excellant place to while away 4 or 5 hours. Fort Charlotte gives you a good view out over the water aswell - I never really realised that we had been at war with the Dutch as well as the French as much as we were in the 17 and 1800's. To get to their territory in the East Indies the Dutch would go the long way round Britain rather than chance the English Channel - and the Shetlands were on the way with this route.

The hostel in Lerwick was starting to fill with people arriving for the folk festival due to start anytime. A group of 5 Americans from Utah were there - first trip to Europe and they had chosen the folk festival at Shtland - but they had managed to get funding from somewhere for the trip so can't be bad. Roger reckons they were Mormons. Impressed that we had driven the White Rim Trail with the Landcruiser, not far from Moab in Utah (199&).

The ferry trip to Orkney might only be 5 and a half hours - but I'm very definately my mother's daughter when it comes to not being a very good passenger if the sea gets slightly rough. It's the first time that I've actually used the provided sick bags - never realised that they were plastic lined before!!! - makes sense though and is quite obvious when you think about it...

Not out on the bikes again today - spent the day exploring Kirkwall by foot. On the way we discovered that the campsite we'd been looking for the night before was most definitely there - but the way in was right at the other end of the field next door to the leisure centre - were campervans and one large tent there as well. A newly built large Tesco, plus Lidel plus Coop store between the lesiure centre and old Kirkwall. All lined up next door to each other, a real death knoll no doubt to the traditional food provision shops in town.

The cathedral in Kirkwall was an amazing place - we took a tour of the 'high up' bits - really do recommend it to anyone who makes it up as far as here. Fantastic view from the tower roof - looking out over Scapa Flow. Much of the land infront of the cathedral is reclaimed - the sea used to come up to within a few 10's of feet from the fromt door of the cathedral. If they have heavy rain and high tides this area is prone to flood. Also spent two or so hours in the museun opposite, very interesting but we were both feeling 'museumed' out so glad to come back to our comfy beds and read.... Thought we'd watch TV but when we discovered that it was the final debate between Gordon, Cameron and Nick we decided to give it a miss.

Back to the bikes tomorrow - off to the island of Hoy and to explore more abour Scapa Flow and the 1st and 2nd world war involvement etc. We hope to walk along to the sea stack, Old Man of Hoy aswell - here's hoping that the weather stays dry - the sun actually came out this evening for the first time on our trip.

If anyone is reading this, do leave a message or email us on sueshuttleworth@btinternet.com - it's great to keep in touch with what is going on at home when you are going to be away for so long.

Sumburugh Lighthouse, Shetland

Lerwick to Lerwick, via Sumburugh Head

Day out on the bus today to the south of the island. £2.50 to travel down on the slow bus, visiting the smaller villages (and delivering the papers/magazines at a local shop in one of the villages - the driver chucked the bundle out of the front door of the bus onto the pavement on the opposite side of the road to the shop) on the way, being dropped off at the en of the line atGrutness Pier along with two girls who were on their way to Fair Ilse for the summer, to the newly constructed bird observortory there. The 'Good Shepherd' ferry boat was waiting for them and the supplies brought down on the bus to go to the island. We asked about the time of the return buses but were directed to the wall of the tiny waiting room at the quayside - by the time we'd looked at it and realised that there there were no return buses on the same day,the bus had gone!!!

The airport is not too far away so decided we would be able to get a bus back from there. Turned the opposite way to the airpot and walked to the most southerly part of Shetland, Sumburugh Head, a bird reserve and lighthouse there. Weather very overcast and the cloud was only just higher than the 100m cliff the lighthouse sits on. Lots of birds nesting on the cliffs - saw our first British puffins today - but after being spoilt by getting so close to them in NE Iceland, these were not nearly as photogenic.

Walked the three miles back to the airport - a stunning location, between two sandy coves, with the runway starting virtually in the water one end and finishing virtually in the water the other end. The road crosses over the runway, with traffic lights controlling the (few) cars and buses - very like Gibraltor airport. The rain was just starting u as we arrived at the airport building - amazingly large - and also about to have a runway extension built. Just missed a bus back to Lerwick - had to wait two hours to get the 'express bus' -a minivan with 16 extremely tiny seats in it - and cost us £5 each for this trip - double what it cost on the way down.

Miserable evening now, cold and very wet. Glad we are in the hostel and not in the tent. Weather looks to improve a little by tomorrow evening, ie the rain is forecast to stop, leaving it cloudy but dry - so planning to camp on Orkney when we arrive there at 11pm tomorrow night.

Roger cooks the evening meal

Lerwick to Lerwick

Enjoying the luxury of a hostel in Lerwick tonight, out of the wind and drizzle. Not had any internet access where we have been camping the last few nights.

With a strong biting northerly wind blowing last Friday morning, and after a very cold night in the tent, as we wanted to get further north, we were recommended by many locals to take the bus with the bikes. 5 o'clock saw us stuffing the bikes into the large boot of a small bus- just enough room to slide the bikes in minus their panniers under the seats. The bus was driven by a lady, and full of locals going home either at the end of the working day or for some because it was the end of the week. The bus went to the main places on the main road north and dropped people off to waiting feeder taxis that then take the people to their homes. The buses tend to only run first thing in the morning into Lerwick, and home again about 5 o'clock.

For every barrel of oil that is produced from the oil rigs off Shetland a penny is given to the Shetland government - that's a lot of pennies over the years. They have certainly spent lots of money on the leisure centres for the islanders, there are 8 of them scattered around the Shetlands. The one in Lerwick is a very impressive setup.

The bus dropped us of at the outkirts of the village of Hillswick, 3 miles to the campsite at Esch Ness. The wind was so cold, lots of layers on including hats on under our cycling helmets. Was up, up and more up,followed by a great downhill, followed by a short but very steep bit to the campsite at the top of the hill. One small camper van there as well. Picked a good spot, sheltered from the northerly wind, with an impressive view over the Drongs, some sea stacks. A sign told us that the Shetlands used to be a desert type place at the equator way back in the past, and was very volcanic - so many strata of larva covered by soft sandstone.

After another cold night in the tent we wrapped up warmly - tights on under my trousers, filled the flask up, made the butties and leaving the tent and panniers at the campsite we did out first proper bike ride - going up as far north as you can get on the mainland to just north of North Roe. Lots of hills, so Roger not a happy chappy, but enjoyable scenery - lots of lambs, in their tiny blue plastic coats to help them survive in this grotty weather.

By the time we got back to our tent, the wind had changed completely to a south westerly, bringing rain and perhaps not quite so cold - the cafe was open at the campsite when we got back so spent an hour or so drying off and warming up - but then discovered that the tent was in a really exposed spot now the winf had changed direction - and leaked rain in under the groundsheet. Had to take everything out and dry off as best we could and move the tent to a new spot.

Roger - him who had to be forced to bring a warm hat and thick gloves with him is very please he has them now, but when asked about the hot water bottle he was offered and refused (many times), now denies that he was ever offered it!! I'm mighty pleased that I brought mine with me.

Yesterday was a lovely day - cycled south back from Hillswick to about 8 miles from Lerwick - 35 miles on a very hilly route, fully loaded up and into the headwind of the south westerly wind most of the time. A good time to cycle on the narrow roads as it was Sunday, so not nearly as busy as is during the week. Difficult as you wobble your way up the steep hills if a constant stream of traffic is trying to get past you on the narrow roads. Not as cold - didn't need our warm hats on under our cycle hats - but still lots of layers on. The camp site was at the top of a long, long hill. Pleased with myself as I managed all the hills without having to get off and push the bike. Weather was changing over the last hour - started raining and the wind really got up again. When got to the campsite - a really lovely view, but the wind was gusting in all directions so made the decision to stay at the inn that was there as well. Enjoyed the warmth and soft beds and hot shower, watched Foyles War as we ate our cuppa soups and bread in bed.

This morning there was no view at all - thick mist and drizzling rain. Put our back lights on and cycled up the long hill that took us to the out skirts of Lerwick in the drizzle - a lovely bit of downhill then down to the ferry terminal. Calledin to see when the ferry to Orkney goes - Mon, Wed and Friday at 5pm - decided to wait till the Wednesday ferry and stay at the hostel here in Lerwick for two nights. There is a folk festival starting on Wednesday so full up from then - luckily room for us for two nights - will be about 1,000 people attending it.

As the weather is forecast to be fairly yuk for the next day or so we will probably get the bus tomorrow down to the south of the island, Sumburgh rather than cycle there as we were planning. Will also investigate the museum here in Lerwick on Wednesday while we wait for the ferry to Orkney - and investigate the Shetland Fudge Shop (well Sue will anyway).

Total cycled to date: 85 miles

No of cycle days: 3 days

Aberdeen to Lerwick

We must be about the only people who have benefited from the recent volcanic eruptions in terms of travel plans. The ferry from Aberdeen to Lerwick normally runs daily,except towards the end of April when they do maintenance work etc -so shouldn't have been a boat yesterday, but due to extra demand they had got an extra ship from somewhere and put an extra sailing on - very few people on it though- the grand total of 6 vehicles on the car deck plus our two bikes. Not used to the luxury of space on a car deck....

As I type this,snug in our little tent on the municipal campsite at Lerwick I'm listening to the deluge of hailstone hitting the tent - Roger has just cycled down to Tesco for some milk and bread - the weather changes here every 5 minutes - the sun will be back out no doubt in another 5 minutes. A cold wind, but lovely views from the tent door, over looking a small lake. There is a very inviting swimming pool here so will go and explore it soon - lovely and warm in there.... The guy at reception says we are 'very brave' to have picked April to cycle camp in the Shetlands. It reminds us of the Faroes, which isn't very surprising really - they're both small islands in the middle of vast expanses of sea, where it rains alot and the wind blows.

Aberdeen lived up to it name of being 'The Granite City' - there is an awful lot of impressive looking granite buildings mainly in the Gothic style, including a Salvation Army Citadel that looks like a fairy tale castle turret. Spent the afternoon waiting for the ferry at the Maritime Museum - a 1 to 33 model of a North Sea Oil Platform is the centre piece - they're amazing places.

Everyone is so chatty and friendly here- even more so than at home. Everyone we meet seems to be a keen cyclist and more than happy to help us.

Roger just arrived with a lovely hot cuppa, and the sun has come out....

20th April 2010: Hebden Bridge to Aberdeen(by train)

Arrived at the hotel in Aberdeen about 9.30pm. Listening to the sound of sea gulls as I write this. A clear night and very cold. Trip up on the trains with the bikes has gone much better than I thought it might have. Hebden Bridge station was great - lots of local characters in the old fashione station cafe where we enjoyed a very tasty bacon buttyand a mug of tea whie waiting for the train. Mum very kindly drove us over to Hebden Bridge with bikes, and waited to wave us off on the two carriage local train from Hebden Bridge to York via Braford and Leeds. An hours wait then on a very drafty York station, my bright fluorescent yellow gloves had their first outing.

A very helpful railway guy told us where to stand with the bikes on the platform and also helped us get the bikes and panniers on board into the guards van area of the train, as we didn't have much time when the train pulled in - we transferred onto the main London to Aberdeen train, via York, Newcastle and Edinburgh - so don't like hanging around. It's hard to be quick with2 bikes, 12 pieces of baggage, a small rucksack, a carrier bag and two helmets. Novel bike rack - you hung the bikes by their front wheel off hooks on the partition.

The train was ram jam packed full of people, took us 15 minutesto get from the guards van area at the front of train to our allotted seats in the middle of the train - caught behind the refreshment trolly for part of the way. Wondered why we were getting so many strange looks - then glanced behind and saw that Roger was wearing his cycle helmet which makes him look just like a horse jockey.

Lovely views on the way up - great evening light - pitch black though by the time we arrived. Pushed our bikes to the hotel - only took 5 mins or so - didn't think it was wise to ride the fully loaded bikes for the first time this trip in the dark, on busy roads in a city we havent visited before.

Amazingly the hotel is fully booked tomorrow, so looks like we will be ctching the ferry to Lerwick, Shetland Isles tomorrow teatime, arriving 7.30am Thursday morning - Rogers birthday. The lady at the station said ithad snowed a bit today - cerainly very cold and a bracing wind.

Am using my new note book to write this - a very annoying keyboard in that many of the keys need a very form press before they register - the worst offenders being the space bar and the a, iand e keys.Very frustrating. Also I havent loaded Office so usedthe basic word processing programme on the notebook to compose myfirst blog on the move - but then discovered that I couldn't copy i tinto this blog posting - so have had to rewrite it, and then the internet connection on my 'dongle' keeps going.So learning the new skills for me ofhaving to learn to go offline as I compose.

Roger snoring away beside me as I type this posting, so time to enjoy the luxury of a bath,which might be the last I have for quite a while now.

The Day Before....

A list of jobs to do in preparation for leaving home for the next 4 to 5 months - birthday cards to write, presents to wrap, cars to be SORNed, insurances to be changed to minimum cover for the vehicles, tax bill to be paid in advance, library books to be taken back, fridge and freezer to be defrosted, house to be 'put to bed', etc etc, new notebook computer to take with us on the trip to be checked out - and see what Windows 7 is like - made more difficult because I've been using a Mac now for the last 6 months..... I've downloaded the Kindle software onto it and 4 books - so will see how easy it is or isn't to read them from the notebook in a tent.

Mum staying with us a couple of nights, so due to house ongoing 'house remodelling' she's in the one and only usuable bedroom and we're downstairs using our camping stuff, sleeping on the floor. I'm definitly getting old and decrepit in the joint department.

The 8 panniers, 2 top boxes, 2 bags (go on the back of the bikes above the back panniers) and a small rucksack are more of less packed.

Mum is driving us to Hebden Bridge station tomorrow morning. As a purist I would have liked to have cycled there from home - but I do concede to Roger that we have a timed train ticket so need to make sure we catch the train - and honest it's nothing to do with the very long and steep hill between Bacup and Todmorden (the Lancashire Yorkshire border)...

So, it's train to York and then change to get onto the train to Aberdeen, arriving 9.15pm so have booked us a hotel room for the night for when we arrive - and warned them that we will have 2 bikes and panniers with us - have said they can go behind reception.

The plan is to spend either one or two days in Aberdeen - depends on the weather and what we find to do there, and then catch the ferry to the Shetlands. Roger persuaded me not to book the ferry tickets in advance - so hope they are not packed out due to the difficulties with air travel at the moment.

So, the start of the cycle trip will be the Shetlands, and then onto Orkneys. Can't get the ferryfrom the Orkneys to John O'Groats till 1st May, so will be on the islands till then at least.

This is my first blog post, so will see what it looks like now.