Lerwick, Shetland to Kirkwall, Orkney

We arrived at the ferry terminal 2 miles out of Kirkwall at 11pm last night - according to the weather forecast from Met Check (gives a detailed 2hourly forecast) it was supposed to be cloudy but dry. Well, it wasn't!! Cycled off the ferry into very wet rain and pitch black. We found our way to where the campsite was supposed to be - next to the leisure centre, but there were no streetlights and impossible to see very much - we had to keep getting off the bikes to shine our lights onto signs as we'd been looking for the leisure centre. The only good news was that Kirkwall was alot less hilly than Lerwick, and the temperature felt alot warmer as there was hardly any wind. After 5 minutes of not getting very far in finding the campsite we gave in (didn't take any real persuasion given how wet it was) and decided to follow the signs we had seen to a hostel - turned out to be a minutes ride away. Felt bad turning up at after 11.30 at night - had to ring up on a phone number for someone to drive over and let us in. £17 each per night so very reasonable for a twin bedded room ensuite, kitchen, dining room and lounge area. All very civilised indeed - quite taken with these hostels - especially as they all tend to have free wifi - but can be a bit difficult about letting you have access to blog sites - so often end up having to use my plug-in internet broadband dongle (goes in one of the USB sockets, and if it can find a 3G connection you then have an internet connection).

Spent yesterday exploring the Shetland Museum on the Lerwick waterside - an excellant place to while away 4 or 5 hours. Fort Charlotte gives you a good view out over the water aswell - I never really realised that we had been at war with the Dutch as well as the French as much as we were in the 17 and 1800's. To get to their territory in the East Indies the Dutch would go the long way round Britain rather than chance the English Channel - and the Shetlands were on the way with this route.

The hostel in Lerwick was starting to fill with people arriving for the folk festival due to start anytime. A group of 5 Americans from Utah were there - first trip to Europe and they had chosen the folk festival at Shtland - but they had managed to get funding from somewhere for the trip so can't be bad. Roger reckons they were Mormons. Impressed that we had driven the White Rim Trail with the Landcruiser, not far from Moab in Utah (199&).

The ferry trip to Orkney might only be 5 and a half hours - but I'm very definately my mother's daughter when it comes to not being a very good passenger if the sea gets slightly rough. It's the first time that I've actually used the provided sick bags - never realised that they were plastic lined before!!! - makes sense though and is quite obvious when you think about it...

Not out on the bikes again today - spent the day exploring Kirkwall by foot. On the way we discovered that the campsite we'd been looking for the night before was most definitely there - but the way in was right at the other end of the field next door to the leisure centre - were campervans and one large tent there as well. A newly built large Tesco, plus Lidel plus Coop store between the lesiure centre and old Kirkwall. All lined up next door to each other, a real death knoll no doubt to the traditional food provision shops in town.

The cathedral in Kirkwall was an amazing place - we took a tour of the 'high up' bits - really do recommend it to anyone who makes it up as far as here. Fantastic view from the tower roof - looking out over Scapa Flow. Much of the land infront of the cathedral is reclaimed - the sea used to come up to within a few 10's of feet from the fromt door of the cathedral. If they have heavy rain and high tides this area is prone to flood. Also spent two or so hours in the museun opposite, very interesting but we were both feeling 'museumed' out so glad to come back to our comfy beds and read.... Thought we'd watch TV but when we discovered that it was the final debate between Gordon, Cameron and Nick we decided to give it a miss.

Back to the bikes tomorrow - off to the island of Hoy and to explore more abour Scapa Flow and the 1st and 2nd world war involvement etc. We hope to walk along to the sea stack, Old Man of Hoy aswell - here's hoping that the weather stays dry - the sun actually came out this evening for the first time on our trip.

If anyone is reading this, do leave a message or email us on sueshuttleworth@btinternet.com - it's great to keep in touch with what is going on at home when you are going to be away for so long.