Monday, 26 April 2010

Lerwick to Lerwick

Enjoying the luxury of a hostel in Lerwick tonight, out of the wind and drizzle. Not had any internet access where we have been camping the last few nights.

With a strong biting northerly wind blowing last Friday morning, and after a very cold night in the tent, as we wanted to get further north, we were recommended by many locals to take the bus with the bikes. 5 o'clock saw us stuffing the bikes into the large boot of a small bus- just enough room to slide the bikes in minus their panniers under the seats. The bus was driven by a lady, and full of locals going home either at the end of the working day or for some because it was the end of the week. The bus went to the main places on the main road north and dropped people off to waiting feeder taxis that then take the people to their homes. The buses tend to only run first thing in the morning into Lerwick, and home again about 5 o'clock.

For every barrel of oil that is produced from the oil rigs off Shetland a penny is given to the Shetland government - that's a lot of pennies over the years. They have certainly spent lots of money on the leisure centres for the islanders, there are 8 of them scattered around the Shetlands. The one in Lerwick is a very impressive setup.

The bus dropped us of at the outkirts of the village of Hillswick, 3 miles to the campsite at Esch Ness. The wind was so cold, lots of layers on including hats on under our cycling helmets. Was up, up and more up,followed by a great downhill, followed by a short but very steep bit to the campsite at the top of the hill. One small camper van there as well. Picked a good spot, sheltered from the northerly wind, with an impressive view over the Drongs, some sea stacks. A sign told us that the Shetlands used to be a desert type place at the equator way back in the past, and was very volcanic - so many strata of larva covered by soft sandstone.

After another cold night in the tent we wrapped up warmly - tights on under my trousers, filled the flask up, made the butties and leaving the tent and panniers at the campsite we did out first proper bike ride - going up as far north as you can get on the mainland to just north of North Roe. Lots of hills, so Roger not a happy chappy, but enjoyable scenery - lots of lambs, in their tiny blue plastic coats to help them survive in this grotty weather.

By the time we got back to our tent, the wind had changed completely to a south westerly, bringing rain and perhaps not quite so cold - the cafe was open at the campsite when we got back so spent an hour or so drying off and warming up - but then discovered that the tent was in a really exposed spot now the winf had changed direction - and leaked rain in under the groundsheet. Had to take everything out and dry off as best we could and move the tent to a new spot.

Roger - him who had to be forced to bring a warm hat and thick gloves with him is very please he has them now, but when asked about the hot water bottle he was offered and refused (many times), now denies that he was ever offered it!! I'm mighty pleased that I brought mine with me.

Yesterday was a lovely day - cycled south back from Hillswick to about 8 miles from Lerwick - 35 miles on a very hilly route, fully loaded up and into the headwind of the south westerly wind most of the time. A good time to cycle on the narrow roads as it was Sunday, so not nearly as busy as is during the week. Difficult as you wobble your way up the steep hills if a constant stream of traffic is trying to get past you on the narrow roads. Not as cold - didn't need our warm hats on under our cycle hats - but still lots of layers on. The camp site was at the top of a long, long hill. Pleased with myself as I managed all the hills without having to get off and push the bike. Weather was changing over the last hour - started raining and the wind really got up again. When got to the campsite - a really lovely view, but the wind was gusting in all directions so made the decision to stay at the inn that was there as well. Enjoyed the warmth and soft beds and hot shower, watched Foyles War as we ate our cuppa soups and bread in bed.

This morning there was no view at all - thick mist and drizzling rain. Put our back lights on and cycled up the long hill that took us to the out skirts of Lerwick in the drizzle - a lovely bit of downhill then down to the ferry terminal. Calledin to see when the ferry to Orkney goes - Mon, Wed and Friday at 5pm - decided to wait till the Wednesday ferry and stay at the hostel here in Lerwick for two nights. There is a folk festival starting on Wednesday so full up from then - luckily room for us for two nights - will be about 1,000 people attending it.

As the weather is forecast to be fairly yuk for the next day or so we will probably get the bus tomorrow down to the south of the island, Sumburgh rather than cycle there as we were planning. Will also investigate the museum here in Lerwick on Wednesday while we wait for the ferry to Orkney - and investigate the Shetland Fudge Shop (well Sue will anyway).

Total cycled to date: 85 miles
No of cycle days: 3 days

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